Skylite Solder-FREE Build! – Cinematic 3-inch Drone for Indoor & Outdoor Shots

By | October 10, 2022

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0:00 Intro & Parts Overview
1:16 Frame Assembly
4:56 Motors
6:46 ESC Stack Mounting
9:30 OPTIONAL – Soldering Receiver
16:45 Flight Controller Mounting
21:06 Camera Plates & Avatar VTX Install
25:00 Antennas & Receiver Mounting
28:00 Standoffs & Mounting the Antennas
29:52 Top Plate & Action Cam Mount
32:33 Final Touches Before Ducts
33:04 Ducts Installation
36:58 Props
38:40 Binding Receiver & Linking Video Transmitter
40:55 Outro & FLIGHT FOOTAGE

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– – – – – – – – – –

– FPV Freestyle Pilots / Hosts –
Drew Camden [Le Drib]

– Production Team –
Drew Camden – Producer
Brennan Thompson – Camera / Editor
Christian Kapper – Editor

Hey guys welcome to rotorot I'm legriv And today we are building a skylight This is going to be a really fun build Because it's fully solder free we've got Everything set up with connectors so That all you got to do is put this thing Together plug everything in and it's Going to be ready for shreddy So when You buy one of our DIY kits you get the Frame you get solder-free Electronics We'll get into all this stuff soon Motors they're also going to have some Connectors on them in this build we are Going to be using the walk snail Avatar Video transmitter and we've got a cable That is going to make this transmitter Plug and play with our flight controller Then of course we've got some 3D prints So that you can put the ducts on if you Want we've got antenna mounts the camera Mounts all the good stuff to make this Build super clean so like I said you're Not gonna have to do any soldering here All the components are going to plug Into each other the only sort of Exception to this is that the receiver Is going to be directly soldered to the Flight controller if you buy a kit from Us including a receiver we'll handle That for you we've got a crossfire Receiver pre-soldered to display Controller if you do opt to buy this kit From us without a receiver because you Want to add your own or if you want to

Change the receiver later and in that Case you will have to solder and I will Show you how to do that a little bit Later in this video but for now let's Not worry about it we've got our Skylight frame here let's open her up We've got our diagram show you how this Goes together let's empty everything out So we've got our main plate we've got Our top plate we've got four arms a Lower stiffener two camera plates these Side braces if we want to use the ducts And a hardware pack let's attach the Arms to the main plate so we need our Arms our main plate the lower stiffener Some of our Hardware in our Hardware kit We've got a bunch of stuff we've got Some M2 Hardware we've got M3 Hardware We've got standoffs so let's get our Standoffs Let's get some of our M3 screws there Are two sizes there's six millimeter and Nine millimeter We need all the nine millimeter screws For the arms And everything else aside we've got our Full rotor rat tool pouch here to load It up with all of our tools we've got Some drivers we've got tweezers we've Got wire cutters we got a soldering iron We're not going to need everything in Here but it's nice to just have so we're Going to use the nine millimeter M3 Screws to attach the arms to the main

Plate and the lower stiffener I do Recommend using medium strength thread Locker which is typically blue if you Don't have it just go to the hardware Store and ask for blue Loctite take one Of your leftover plastic baggies from The packaging and just squirt some on There That's going to make it so we can just Dip the screws in there let's grab our Two millimeter hex driver and I like to Just kind of put the screw on the end of The hex driver there and I can just kind Of hold it with my finger you only need A little bit And now the screw is going to go up Through the lower stiffener then through The arm Let's Line that up now you can grab one Of the arms and see how the curve of the Arm will line up with the Curve there if You put it on upside down it's not going To line up like you'll see that that's That's wrong so when you get it the Right way This side lines up the big hole lines up Everything looks like it is where it's Supposed to be The screw goes up through the lower Stiffener up through the arm and then We'll thread into pressed nuts that are In the main plate this side where you Can see the Press nut is going to be Inside the Drone this flat side is going

To be against the arm so let's line that Up Like that So that's how it's going to be Okay and let's just for now just give it Like A couple turns it's loose great now with That in place we can insert the other Arms doing this first sandwich is kind Of the hardest part because everything Is loose once you've got it to this Point it's not going to be too difficult Just grab the next arm Insert it in now you can hold it down Line up the holes grab another screw dip It into blue thread it right through Once you've got two in you could put the Middle one in Which will Start start preventing them from Flopping around as much there we go keep Everything loose still we're just Getting all the arms and all the screws In place just keep moving around get our Next one but now we've got all four arms In place held in with all five screws They're still loose but you see now the Arms aren't moving freely anymore Because they're butted up against each Other and there's that locking screw in The middle first I'm just going to go Around in a pattern And I'm just doing it finger tight Double check that everything's lined up

Flush and looking like it's supposed to Okay now we can go down and torque them Make sure the tool is fully seated in The head of the screw and just give it a Good twist If you want you could continue on with The frame assembly and get the whole Frame put together but I prefer to start Installing the components without the Camera plates and the standoffs in the Way so we're going to hold off on the Rest of the frame bits for now let's Grab our Motors these motors are great For cinewip Stuff line they are 2203.5 3100 KV Motors you might hear these Referred to as pancake Motors because They have such a large diameter and are Very short but they work super well for Spinning three inch props getting that Ultra stabilized Cinna whoop stop line The motors themselves come with screws To mount them to the arms a good idea to Put the prop nut on the end of the motor So you don't lose it and then we need to Find the right length of screw So if you hold this one up and push it Through you have just a little bit of Thread We're going to need our 1.5 millimeter Hex driver If you use the longer length of screw You can see how close the end of the Screw is to the winding I'm just holding It up here for reference

But you don't want that if you do this You are risking the screw touching the Windings of the motor which can create a Short so of the screws included with the Motor you want to use the shorter length Still a good idea to just use a smidge Of thread Locker get one screw through There Grab your 1.5 millimeter hex driver Line up your motor give it a couple Turns add all four screws so we've got All four screws in place Loosely just Double check that it's lined up Correctly we're looking good so now we Can go around Start snugging them up pay close Attention that you don't see the screws Start to go up too far and hit the Windings even though we were careful to Choose the right length screw just in Case you messed up did any of them Sticking up too far no we are looking Good with all four snugged up let's go Around and Torque them down so let's do the same Thing to install the other three motors Look how good that looks double check That we don't have any of the screws Making contact with the windings now With our Motors installed let's put our ESC in place we're going to grab our box Of electronics and pull out our Escm Hardware pack so you can see this ESC has the connectors all soldered up

To it out of the hardware package that Comes with the fly controller and ESC The only things that you're going to Need are the harness that connects the Flight controller to the ESC and these Black M3 nuts so grab those and set Everything else aside if you go over to The hardware that came with the frame Kit you'll find four 20 millimeter Screws that we'll use for the stack and We also need some of these M3 nylon nuts So grab one of your screws and drop it Through the bottom of the frame you'll See that the head of the screw drops Through the lower stiffener and the arm And stops against the main plate put all Four screws in if you notice that one is Catching which because the tolerances Kind of stacked up against you here just Grab your tool and give it a little push And a Twist and it'll go right through It's not a big deal So now with all the screws in place We're going to flip it over cover the Bottom with your hands so that they Don't fall out and now we can grab our M3 nylon nuts And thread them onto the screws I'm just going to go ahead and do a Couple turns on all fours that they stop Falling out on me Okay and now we can just kind of tighten Them up all the way again that's your Two millimeter driver you can either you

Can hold the screw and just spin the nut On or you can hold the nut and turn the Screw into it we've got our stack screws In place and just double check that the Same amount of thread is sticking up Indicating that you've threaded the Nylon nut all the way down we can now Drop our ESC onto our stack Hardware I've got the Drone lined up so that the Tail of the Drone is facing me here's The nose and we're going to drop the ESC Onto it So that the battery lead is on the right Side of the Drone just line up the Mounting holes with the screws and just Gently push down you shouldn't have to Force it just slide right onto it and go Ahead and plug our Motors into our ESC So just grab The leads at Each corner just plug all Four in let's just massage this so that The connectors are laying down on top of The arms and we can just push the wires Into place so that they look neat and Tidy when you're happy with how Everything is laying down we can get Some electrical tape And tape down the connectors Look how nice that looks let's do the Other three I've got all four taped up now this is Looking so hot loving it now it's time To drop the flight controller onto the ESC

Like I mentioned when you buy the kit From us you get the receiver that you Chose pre-soldered it to the fly Controller but in the case that you Bought this kit without a receiver Included or if you want to change it up Later let me show you how you would Solder this receiver to the flight Controller we've got our TBS Crossfire Receiver and we've got our flight Controller so the crossfire we get the Receiver itself our fancy Immortal T Antenna and a pack of goodies so we're Going to solder four wires to the Receiver and then we're going to solder Those four wires to the fly controller We'll start just by doing the soldering Let's get our wire color right on the Crossfire receiver The pad that is lined up with the Antenna connector and the bind button Right here that's your ground pad so We'll just set our black wire there Right next to the ground pad is your 5 Volt pad usually you'd want to use a red Wire and then next to the 5 volt pad is The channel one of the receiver this is What we are going to use for the TX Functionality of the receiver and we can Use a white wire and then the last pad Is the channel 2 of the receiver which We will use for the RX functionality of The receiver so that's the wire order Soldering them up is very simple if

You've never soldered before don't worry I'm going to break it down for you but You might want to practice on one of our Practice boards where you can solder on A PCB get your heat right and your iron Angle right practice putting wires on Taking them off and know that if you Mess up or use too much heat or whatever You're not going to damage your Expensive component I'm going to set the Soldering iron to about 350 degrees Celsius these are small gauge wires you Don't need a ton of heat but it can Actually be bad to use too low of a heat Because then you need to apply the heat For longer giving it more time to Dissipate throughout the electronic and You could do some damage so 350 is going To be high enough that soldering is Going to be pretty easy but not Unnecessarily High the fundamental Soldering is exposed a little bit of Wire I'm just going to prop it up here So you can see we're going to apply a Little bit of solder to the wire so First I'm pre-tening the Iron by Applying solder to it I'm going to hold The iron to the exposed portion of wire And bring some solder in just like That now I've got some solder on the end It's it's hard to see and we're going to Do the same thing on the receiver bring The iron onto the receiver and bring the Solder on there hold it for a second and

Just get a little ball of solder there We go We can do that to all our pads while We're here Be a great time to use some helping Hands or put something heavy on top of The receiver I'm actually just going to Use a little bit of electrical tape so I Don't block your view I'm just going to Straight up tape this thing down to the Table There we go so don't forget your pad Order so now we're going to bring our Pre-tinned wire onto our pre-tin pad and Apply some heat and repeat for all four Pads next up we've got our five volt pad So again just hold them together apply Some heat and just remember to hold the Wire on there for just a moment longer After you remove the heat so that it has Time to cool down I've got a white wire And our yellow wire Next up let's put the antenna on here so We're going to grab this is called the Mortal T antenna and this is a u dot FL Connector these can be fragile if They're misaligned and you push down too Hard I like to grab my hex driver and Use that as a tool to push down the Connector once I have it aligned like You'll feel it right it shouldn't move Around so I'm kind of feeling it with my Finger and it's all aligned there gently Push down with the tool so and I'm using

The tools that I can push straight down That was a really satisfying click I did Not have to push too hard okay we've Done all the work we need to do on the Receiver let's protect it with some of The heat shrink they gave us and just Use our wire cutters or scissors you Know kind of figure out the length that You need And Chomp it And we're going to slide this heat Shrink over the wires and up over the Receiver so this is going to protect the Receiver prevent it from shorting out And also help hold the antenna connector Down grab your heat gun and apply some Heat I'm using a lighter Heat gun would be better you don't need To put the heat shrink in the flame like You just need the heat so you can see How I've got some distance between the Flame and the heat shrink heat rises so Like I don't need to burn it I can just The heat will come off the flame and Heat up the heat shrink so this is now Good to go and we're still going to have Access to our bind button right there Later on Something else I like to do once the Heat shrinking is done is just twist up All the wires so if your drone's already Put together up to this step you could Set the receiver down where you're going To solder it and run the wires over to

The place on the flight controller where You're going to solder them and measure Your length And then once you know how long you're Going to cut it give her a good old Snippy snip with the wires cut to length We can kind of untwist the end here and We need to strip back some of the wire Again so that we can solder Use a wire stripper or your fingernail Just like before we can pre-tin them you Might notice that the length that I Stripped back is a little bit uneven you Don't need too much so Pro tip you can Trim them after the fact and it's going To be easier the wires won't Fray so now That I've pre-tinned them I can just Trim a little bit off to help keep this Clean That's good now we're going to pre-tin The flight controller on this particular Flight controller I'm going to be Soldering the receiver wires to this Group of solder pads grab our piece of Electrical tape again and Tape over the fly controller this is Also a great idea because if any specs Of solder get flung off your iron this Tape is going to prevent it from hitting Your flight controller and damaging any Of the components you look really Carefully on there they do label what The pads are if you're having trouble Seeing it you can always look at the

Flight controller diagram But we're going to pre-tin our ground Pad our 5 volt pad The R1 pad And the T1 pad and that means we are Going to be using uart number one On this flight controller it's a little Bit too much solder on that one pad Since I've cleaned off the tip of my Iron and I can just bring it in and kind Of Suck off some of the solder there we go So with everything pre-tinned up we're Going to solder the wires to the pads Something that might make this a little Bit cleaner is actually running the Wires this way so I'm going to bring Them in from this side so they're not Coming out so again it's just a matter Of bringing the pre-tinned wire onto the Pre-tin pad Applying some heat to flow it together That does it for our five volt and Ground now the transmitting wire from The receiver this white wire you're Going to attach to the receiver pad of The flight controller so in that case That means this white wire is going to Go on that Pad but we're going to do the Other wire first because we'll be Covering it up so we're just going to Push this out of the way so that means We're going to be grabbing the RX wire From the receiver and soldering it to

The TX pad Of the flight controller so just like That it's going to work our soldering Iron in there boom All right we're good to go so we've got Our flight controller soldered up to Our Receiver it's all good to go again if You buy a kit from us including a Receiver you won't have to do that step And another thing you won't have to do Is do any settings if you buy the kit The flight controller will already be Configured by us to know that it's Talking to say a crossfire receiver on CrossFire protocol on uart1 but if you Buy the kit without a receiver or if you End up changing the receiver you're Going to have to go into betaflight and Change the settings so that the flight Controller knows what you are it's Communicating on and what protocol it Needs to use and if you need more Information about what I'm talking about Check out our full video on setting up Betaflight we'll leave a link in the Description we're going to drop this Flight controller on top of this ESC So that the USB is coming out the left Hand side again just line up the Mounting holes and gently press it down So that just a little bit of threads are Exposed from the top of the flight Controller now is a great time to double Check that nothing is touching that you

Don't want you don't want to have the ESC touching the Press nuts or the Carbon you don't want to have the flight Controller touching the ESC you want to Have good clearance for everything and We're looking great grab the harness That will be used to connect the ESC to The fly controller this one and we're Going to start by plugging it into the Fly controller so that's the connector That is at the front of the fly Controller right there just line it up Carefully and then just apply pressure To the sides with your fingers until it Slides in and then we're going to grab The other end Bring It Around To the connector on the ESC now if you Want you can give this a Twist so I am Going to go ahead And Make it look like that line it up with The port on the ESC just carefully It only goes in one way so you can line It up gently And then once it's lined up then apply That pressure and we are plugged in we Are good to go if you want something you Can do to make the build look cleaner is Lift up the flight controller and push This wiring in between the two boards That'll make everything kind of tucked And look nicer however sometimes having The wires run over the escs like that

Can introduce noise into the signal Wires so if you're worried at all about That leave it on the outside I think We'll probably be okay so I'm going to Go ahead and run them between the two Boards like that boom and just double Check that nothing is pinched see I can Feel that there is free play and slack In the wires so I've got no problem There let's grab this harness which will Connect our flight controller to our Avatar video transmitter it is going to Plug into this side connector there Which you might be able to snaggle in There but we're going to go ahead and Lift up the flight controller One more time we can just kind of angle It up to get ourselves some access Gently squeeze it into place There we go And now Set the flight controller back there Double check that your wires have free Play we're looking good now we shouldn't Need to lift the flight controller again So let's go ahead and grab four more of The nylon nuts from your Hardware pack And put them on the exposed threads you Can use a 5.5 box wrench To Snug the nylon nuts down and you Really do just want to Snug not tighten So I'm just turning it until I feel a Little bit of resistance and the soft Mount gummies compress slightly you

Don't want to torque it down if you over Torque these and balloon out the gummies Then you're putting stress on the Electronics components you've defeated The purpose of the soft mounting So you don't need to torque it down just A little bit of tension on there is all You need if the nylon nut on the bottom Starts to spin or unthread you might Need to hold the screw on the bottom With the two mil and hit the top with The Box wrench and when you're done the End of the screw should be flush with or Just recessed from the nylon nut so that Looks really good there there's just Slight bit of compression on the soft Mount gummies we are looking good We can still kind of feel that the board Is soft mounted double checking our Wires still have Slack and free play everything's looking Great the next component we are going to Install is the Avatar video transmitter But before we put that on we need our Camera plates in place grab the Standoffs grab your shorter M3 screws Use just a dab of the thread locker and Thread three of these standoffs onto the Same side of one of the camera plates Grab your drone assembly and you're Going to slide This tab on the nose through this slot On the camera plate Just like that grab another camera plate

Slide it over the opposite slot let's Just get the three screws on the other Side in place very Loosely leaving Enough free play so that we'll be able To slide the camera in So we still have a ton of free play but The plates are in place So now we can grab our transmitter and Camera The Avatar video transmitter is going to Mount in the rear of the frame if you Look we have two patterns we have a 20 By 20 hole pattern and we have a 25 by 25 hole pattern we're going to use the Outer 25×25 so grab the long M2 screws And drop them through The outer holes making up that pattern Take four of the M2 nylon nuts and Thread them onto the screws and then Using the 1.5 millimeter hex driver we Can run these nuts down on the screw if You have trouble holding on to the small M2 nuts you could always use some Tweezers like this to kind of clamp them But however you do it it's just kind of Tedious and you just got to be patient We've got our screws in place so let's Install the video transmitter you want To install it with this side facing up So you should see this plate in the back This is the bottom side it has a bump So we just put it on like this Now just do your best to line up the Screws with the mounting holes on the

Transmitter but you might find that it's Just kind of finicky And it doesn't want to press on as Easily because it doesn't have like the Soft mounting that your flight Controller had to allow some wiggle room So what I've found is you can take your Small driver and just twist The screws as you push down to slowly Work the transmitter down Twist the hardware a bit and apply just A little bit of pressure you don't want To push down super hard and just kind of Slowly work it down don't go too far Down on one side because you don't want To flex the circuit board there we go We've got our video transmitter in place And now the camera is going to slide up Front you do have enough room to slide It in but to make things a little easier To see and work I'm going to actually Remove this top stand off this is also Where the action camera mount goes so we Would have needed to remove that anyway If you look at the back of the camera You'll see that there's an arrow You want to have that facing upward if You get it wrong it's okay you can fix It later in the goggle settings but you Know get it right if you can the camera Is going to mount to these 3D printed Inserts these are going to install into These openings in the frame like so There's a left and a right side

And when you install it You should have this slot facing the Nose of the Drone and these two curved Pieces having this slight angle back so It should look like that on the left Side and on the right side it should be The exact opposite this camera is a Two-hole camera mount so you are going To mount it using the two curved slots So Slide the camera into place so you Can see the mounting holes in the slots And in the video transmitter packaging You get a little Hardware baggie So you can find some short M2 screws and Thread them in we've got all four camera Screws threaded in Loosely so we can Still change the angle of the camera We'll get that locked in later and then Tighten it down let's get the antennas Installed into the transmitter we're Going to remove this rear plate so you Need a very small Phillips head Screwdriver these screws are obnoxiously Small So try not to lose them if you do there Are a couple extra included with the Video transmitter but still with the Screws out of the way we can remove this Locking plate exposing our antenna Connectors that's where our video Transmitter antennas are going to Install Got them here but before we plug them in Let's put them into the antenna mount

So that's this piece right here in the Antenna mount you get This upper piece with two lobes and These bare sleeves We need this two lobed piece and insert The UFL connector through the top like That wiggle it and work it until it goes All the way through there we go before You push the antenna in do the other Side if you need to you can grab Tweezers and gently gently pull it Through there we go so I'm going to Twist the antennas so that the Connectors are facing downward like that And then we can push them all the way Through One two there we go That's how it should look when you're Done so just as before we're going to Line up the antenna connector And gently push down with the driver Oh What a great click Same as the other side don't force it Don't push too hard it should go right On There it is Okay squeeze them together a little bit And before we have another chance to Lose those screws let's put this Mounting plate back in place and use These baby screws to hold it down it Does help if you're Screwdriver is magnetized so you can do

It like that All three in place Loosely and tighten Them all down Really don't go too crazy with these Because they are so small that you could Easily strip them now with that plate in Place we can put some M2 nuts on these Threads to hold the video transmitter Down and provide some additional Retention for this locking plate Grab some more M2 nylon nuts and thread Them on Thread them on like Donkey Kong who is Known for Slowly threading Mario and I'm just Using tweezers to Snug them up our Crossfire is just going to mount on top Of the video transmitter like that so Let's get a piece of double-sided tape And we will stick it to the bottom of The crossfire peel the backing Now position it where you want I'm going To stick it like right here set it down Lightly at first and then just apply Steady pressure across the receiver this Tape is pressure activated so just push Down with a little bit of pressure and Hold it for you know 10 to 30 seconds Yeah that's on there good we can take This lead coming from the fly controller Plug it into our video transmitter just Like before Let's Twist the wires a Little bit to keep them together line it Up push it in let's get some more of our

Standoffs and let's install the front Standoffs there okay here when your M3 Screws with a dab of thread Locker Insert it up through the bottom there And drop your standoff onto it there Make sure this camera wire runs between The two standoffs don't pinch it we'll Snug them up from the bottom not fully Tight yet just snug Check it in pinch your camera wire all Right now we can actually take this wire And kind of Shove It Forward a little Bit you know hold the loop up there now These last two standoffs are going to go In the rear this is where the antenna Holder comes into play Insert these standoffs Like so the bottom portion of these Standoffs are bare and if you have your Own solution for mounting your receiver Antenna that's what these blank sleeves Are for you can just slip those on there And complete the antenna mount but we Are using a crossfire Immortal T antenna So we've got these pieces that are Specific to the immortal T and will Provide a good mounting position for it Grab these pieces and slide them over Your antenna Like this you want these inside Pockets Facing toward the center of the antenna You want your slash cuts on the outside So it all ends up like that And then just slide it onto the bottom

Of the standoffs So that the slash Cuts line up and that The standoff is flush with the bottom And with the top and now you've got this Whole antenna unit carefully flex your Antenna pigtails so they go inside the Drone body like so And line up the antenna mount with the Holes on the bottom of the main plate Grab some M3 screws and thread them in Deb Is that not so snazzy look how snazzy Come on guys come on everything's Looking great let's just do a kind of Final wire management here get Everything pushed down and in place we Can just grab this top plate and that's Going to drop down here these two slots Are going to insert over the tabs on the Camera plates So just drop that on again we left the Camera plates loose so everything can Get lined up nice and easily we've got Two holes in the back and two holes in The front let's just do the back for now We're just snugging it up we've got the Top plate in place we just need to do The front two screws but these screws Will also play a part in holding down Our action camera mount so here we have Just our tabbed action camera mount this Is going to work with GoPros or the DJI Action camera it's going to let you dial In the angle it's not going to provide

The most protection so if you're going To be doing some real ripping and Crashing you might want to swap this out For an action camera mount that covers The whole camera and provides some armor For it but with cinewip Style flying You're not going to be usually crashing As hard as you would with freestyle so This style amount usually gets the job Done gives you that angle flexibility And keeps things a little bit more Lightweight than the full covered Mount The standoff that goes up front here is Going to slide in the front of the mount Just like that if you need to you can Kind of put it against the table and use Your weight to help fully push it in Then you need two M3 screws you've got Two leftover long ones in our Hardware Pack and those go here We can drop those screws into there and Start threading them down it's looking Really good all right just a little snug For now You just got to get this lined up so Push this into place grab a screw and Thread it in so now the whole drone is Assembled but we've left a lot of the Screws either loose or just snugged up So let's go around the whole thing and Tighten it all up we can crank down the Standoff screws we left the camera Plates really loose so definitely don't Forget to hit those the only screws you

Don't want to go too crazy on are these Screws in here that are pushing down on The 3D printed piece because you can Really over compress it so you want to Tighten it just don't go too wild if you Just keep twisting it you'll eventually Just deform this Mount so tighten it Just don't go too crazy we left these Camera screws loose so we can dial in Our angle you might find that the camera Is still tight just because of the Camera plates being pushed together so When you're dialing in your angle you Might need to slightly loosen up the Camera plates just a little bit Get your angle dialed in where you want It and then you can tighten back up the Camera plates and then you can also Tighten up the camera screws themselves There we go So this drone is just about complete in Its open prop form so we can do some Final touches now like let's get our Battery pad And let's add our battery strap if you Want this strap to be going over all of The wires so just be really careful when You're pulling it through Now if you wanted This drone is ready to go you can strap On this battery and then open prompt we Can run up to a three and a half inch Prop and this would be a really fun Small sized freestyle machine but we're

Setting this up to be more of a Cinewoope type drone which means we want To add the duct so we aren't done quite Yet Now to turn this into a ducted indoor Safe drone rather than running open Three and a half inch props we're going To install these slim ducts and run Three inch props The last pieces of carbon that came with Your frame kit are these side braces That allow for mounting the ducts and These are going to install using the Holes in the tips of the arms these Pieces have pressed nuts in them and You're going to set these pieces under The arms like so And thread through the arm and into the Press nut with how big the diameter of This motor is you might need to kind of Wiggle the screw to get it through There we go just Loosely there With both in place you can tighten one Tighten the other if you have any Trouble getting those screws in that Would mean that your arms aren't Properly aligned and that you had one of Them maybe shifted out of place before You tightened these down earlier when we Were building the Drone so if you Experience that you might need to loosen Up the bolts holding down the arms put The side braces in place which would Guarantee they're all lined up and then

Tighten them back down but when we were Building this we were really careful to Double check everything so as you saw Everything was lined up perfect and we Were able to put that side brace right On now let's do the other side There you go we've got our side braces In place and you can now see what I was Thinking when I designed this Frame I Wanted something that had all Replaceable Parts the arms are separate Pieces so if you break one you can swap It out and the side braces are separate Pieces so if you break that you can swap It out everything's going to be very Repairable and it's configurable in that You can remove these side braces all Together and run an open prop or put Them on and put the ducts on so whatever You want out of this it can be that and I'm just really happy with how this Comes together when we first released This Frame it only was available with The full size ducts but after playing Around some more and switching to these Pancake Motors and playing with Designing we found that this new design Which has a Slimmer duct gets you all The benefit of the duct in terms of Getting that ducted efficiency and Providing protection while also cutting Through the air a little bit better Since it doesn't go down as far and Saving some weight so I'm really happy

With how this comes together the side Braces are installed so now we can Attach the ducts we've got mounting Holes on the side braces and we are also Going to mount the ducts to these holes In the top plate and these holes in the Camera plates You'll notice that we've got longer Screws included with the ducts to go up Front so we're going to remove these and Not reuse them but we are going to reuse These screws in the rear let's just do One side at a time so let's remove this Rear screw and this camera plate screw Screws out of the way let's set the Ducts in place These little carbon fingers are going to Sit inside these Pockets here so put a Screw up through the carbon and it's Going to thread directly into The 3D print as usual get all the screws Loosely in place before you tighten any Of them down Again with these because it's pushing Down on this 3D printed part you want to Tighten it but don't keep cranking down On it too far or else you'll just deform This piece then lastly this Upper Front Screw which you kind of have to hit it Sort of an angle but it's no problem There we go one side is done the duct is In place we can go back and tighten up The bottom pieces again this is a Tighten but don't crank situation

Because you could Strip the TPU sleeve this side is all Done and tightened up now let's do the Other side so again remove the same two Screws This back one And this upper side one set the duct in Place our drone is fully built our ducts Are installed let's just put our props On it we set these ducted drones up with Props out so you want to have this Leading Edge of the prop spinning away From the camera This prop and this prop are going to be Counterclockwise this prop and this prop Are going to be clockwise when you're Starting out it can be a little bit Tricky to recognize prop Direction You eventually get used to it and can Easily tell which prop is supposed to go Which direction let me just set all These props on here for you now take a Freeze frame or whatever you need to do This is how it should look these are Spinning outward from the camera these Are spinning outward from the antennas These are counterclockwise these are Clockwise This is how it should look double check Triple check and then put your prop nuts On and with that the ducted Skylight is Fully complete you'll notice we didn't Have to go into betaflight or blh heli Or anything like that that's because

When you buy the DIY kit we configure Everything for you the escs are set up The betaflight settings are all taken Care of all you have to do is put this Drone together plug everything in make It look nice and it's ready to rip now Like I mentioned if you buy the kit Without a receiver or change something With the receiver you might need to go In a betaflight and fix that or if you Piece this kit together then you might Need to set it up in betaflight from Scratch so in either of those two cases Or if you just want to learn more about Setting up betaflight definitely check Out our video where we do a full walk Through setting up beta flight from Scratch we go through every single Feature that you need to know it's a Super helpful video we'll leave a link In the description to it but if you Don't want to worry about that that's Okay that's what this is for this thing Is ready for sending the only thing we Are going to have to do is bind the Receiver and Link the video transmitter We built this drone with a crossfire Receiver so we have a radio with a Crossfire module if you use a different RC system like ghost or elrs there might Be some slight differences in The Binding procedure but it's pretty much The same you put the receiver in bind Mode you put the radio in bind mode and

It does its thing what's really cool About most modern receivers are that if They haven't been bound before you don't Even need to hit the bind button on the Receiver when you power them up they Automatically go into bind mode so if we Just power this up we can see in there That the receiver is flashing green Indicating it's in bind mode if the Receiver that you're using has been Previously bound then you might need to Remove the top plate and hit the little Bind button on the receiver itself but This receiver is in bind mode we got the Blinking green light so let's just go Into our module boom Our receiver is Bound and now we have to link the video Transmitter to the goggles the process For that is very similar to binding the Receiver before you do it you might want To check that you're on the latest Firmware for Avatar both the goggles and The transmitter can be updated and we'll Leave a link in the description to the Update process just know that you are Going to need this cable that came with Your video transmitter that's got USB on One side and this connector on the other You'll be plugging it into this open Port on your video transmitter which is A little bit finicky to get to but it is Possible with these slim ducks to slip It in there so use this cable and a Computer to update your video

Transmitter and you will use the SD card Slot to update the goggles so assuming You've already got everything updated Let's go ahead and do the linking Process to power up our goggles we need Them to be fully booted up so plug them In hit the power button and wait until You see the full standby screen the link Button for the video transmitter is on The back side and you can carefully Insert a tool into the back of the Drone Here and hit the button when you hit it The light on the side will turn red now Go over to your goggles and get Something a little pointy and hit the Small red link button right here Goggles will beep And when they stop beeping There we've got video the Skylight is Ready to go if you're interested in Picking up one of these we have them Available as a full kit so you can put This thing together to plug it in and Send it available if you Learned something or had a good time Make sure to hit the like button and if You pick up one of these leave a comment Down below and let us know how much you Enjoy flying it all that's left to do is Strap on a battery and hook up a GoPro And let's rip this thing [Music] Foreign [Music]